The Berwyns

 
This is the second of several travelogues featuring visits to Wales and this time we spent a day hiking in the Berwyns, a relatively easy drive from home.

The Berwyns are located in Northeast Wales and occupy a little known area to the east of the Snowdonia National Park. Although lower than many of the more popular Welsh mountain ranges, the Berwyns have one significant advantage: they cover a large area and offer a real wilderness experience for those who like to get away from the rush.

In a Nutshell:

Date: January 28, 2006

Weather: Clear skies, cold air, snow on the summits. Perfect winter hiking conditions

Route: Reasonable trails to and from Pystyll Rhaeadr (waterfall);

Critical waymarkers lower down are missing so it is easy to get off trail.

Recommended? Definitely, for those who don’t mind their mountains being on the soft side.


We arrived at the end of the road around nine o'clock at the local Welsh Wonder, the 200ft high waterfall known (in Welsh) as Pystyll Rhaeadr. This is also the trailhead for two paths up to the Berwyns. The waterfall itself is quite spectacular, formed of one large drop, then a pool with a natural arch through the the water drops again to the stream below. Best seen after heavy rain, it is quite a sight.


The falls drain the Afon Disgynfa, an upland valley that "hangs" above the main "U" shaped valley that originates high in the Berwyns, under Cadair Berwyn.

Here is a close up of the natural arch between the two cascades.


The area below the falls includes a small cafe which is open most of the year and serves snacks and drinks. Parking is available for a small charge at the cafe and there are also public toilets which were clean. You can also park down the road for free.

Both trails up to the Berwyns start at the base of the waterfalls but in each case the Ordnance Survey Explorer map is a little unclear as to how one should proceed. Most of the signs refer to the short hike to the top of the falls. Even the trail guide books were none to clear about how you actually start the hike.

If you plan to take the "high" trail then you must follow the steep zig zag path up to the top of the waterfall. At some point (we missed it) you will veer off to the right of the main path and head north up the ridge toward the Berwyns (Trum Felen). If you reach the upper valley and see the signpost to the top of the waterfall (in a small wood) then you have missed the trail! We cut across country because it was a clear day but if the weather is at all unsettled, we would advise hikers to retrace steps back to the turning we missed.

If you plan to take the "low" trail then you will leave on the same waterfall path but quickly cut across the stream below and make a small backward zig to the east to climb up to the old trail that will take you up the main valley. This is a much easier trail to find (because you can see it in front of you!) and is probably the more popular of the two.

We took the "high road" because the valley was in shadow and it was cold, but also because a lot of altitude is gained quite early on, allowing better views than from within the valley.

The "High" Trail climbs rapidly up to the top of the ridge immediately south of the main Berwyn Mountains. Apart from a small drop between Trum Felen and Moel Sych it is a climb all the way. But the gradient lessens, at least until the final push up Moel Sych.

Because we had veered off course, we found ourselves to the west of the trail, in a broad upland valley that had its own unique feel. When we arrived at the sheepfold at SJ 0655 3055 we decided to head straight up the hillside to the top of Trum Felin, meeting the path we had missed. This is the view behind us of the broad upland valley.
Looking West from near the top of Trum Felin, we could see snow capped mountains, most probably the Arans. The day was very clear at this hour and became hazy later in the day. So this is our best long range shot. The Arans certainly look interesting and need to be researched for a future hike.
It was also here that we began to see the first traces of snow. Snow that had probably fallen quite recently but had not melted where the sun had not reached it. The trail itself began to show some signs of inevitable erosion.
The Berwyns are covered by a thick layer of peat and this is being exposed and eroded along the trails, as the photo shows.
The broad summit of Trum Felin pales into comparison with what lies ahead. For now the full grandeur of the Berwyns can be seen for the first time. Ahead is the much larger mound that is Moel Sych (on the left in the photo). Further along the ridge is the sharp crag that is the summit of Cadair Berwyn. Cliffs to the east, a vast gentle swath of heather and grass to the west.

Not yet visible is the small and only mountain lake in the Berwyns, Llyn Lluncaws.

Moel Sych is a big lump! We slogged our way up to the summit, enjoying the views, the veneer of snow, and the icy fence railings!


At the Summit of Moel Sych there is a cairn to help point out exactly where the highest point is! It was absolutely glorious when we got there. Blue sky, very cold, lots of ice and snow.

Perhaps the only things "wrong" are the sheep fences. The Berwyns are privately owned and are in fact part of a large hill farm. Hence the fences. The fences do have one very important positive feature, however, for they can help you get off the mountain if the clouds descend!

The ice on the wire fences allowed a little photographic creativity on what is otherwise a rather featureless mountain top!


The hike from Moel Sych to Cadair Berwyn involves a drop down to a saddle that is only a few tens of meters lower than the two summits it separates. At the saddle, the trail we had been following meets the trail that comes up from the valley. And at the junction the view to the east shows Llyn Lluncaws for the first time. Also visible is the trailhead - the area of green fields in the valley floor in the middle distance.

This photo, shot into the low winter sun, shows the glacial nature of the lake - it even had some ice on it.

Cadair Berwyn was just a short distance away, heading North. The gentle nature of the mountains is quite well displayed on this shot of the peak. Compared with many of the "mountaineer's mountains" in Wales, some would say this is a softy. But for serious hill walkers it is magical.

There are two summits at Cadair Berwyn but the southern summit is the highest point in the range and so this is what we headed for, leaving the trail to the north for another day. It was time for lunch and we were hungry!

The view from the summit (830 meters, SJ 0720 3255) is spectacular. The most viewed and photographed aspect is to the south, including Llyn Lluncaws.

With wind-blasted icy snow on the splintery rocks, the day's "best shot" shows just how worthwhile the climb is!

Another view, to the east, shows the gentle rolling Welsh foothills that also act as good approach paths to the main ridge. There are several trailheads down there with one trail basically aiming straight at the cliffs below (which are not as steep as they may look!)

We reluctantly headed away from the summit but still enjoyed the snow and the views.


The path down to Lyn Lluncaws is not so steep but it is also showing signs of erosion along the way.


Once the path reaches the stream flowing out from Llyn Lluncaws, it becomes a little boggy and muddy, as you might expect, but then it soon changes into a well defined trail that was probably originally used by shepherds and lead miners (though I am not sure if any lead was actually found on the mountain - the nearest abandoned mines are just below the waterfall).





And so, one last look back as the fast dropping winter sun sends its rays up the valley behind us.





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The following link is recommended for those planning to visit this part of Wales.

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map 255

What equipment should you take on a hike to the Berwyns?

  1. Depending on the time of year, you should prepare for the worst conditions possible, even if there is not a cloud in sight at 6 a.m. and the weather forecast is good. Weather patterns can change quickly. We saw several weather patterns come and go in winter and things could have been very different if the clouds had descended on the peaks.

  2. The obvious items for cold weather include hat, neck gaiter or scarf, several layers including wicking t-shirt, good quality waterproof jacket/anorak, gloves (preferably waterproof), trousers (polartec or similar in cold weather) with waterproofs over (strongly recommend Marmot brand as they breathe), liner socks under thick hiking socks, and finally good quality hiking boots with ankle support. Additional equipment should include map and compass, whistle, additional water and rations for an emergency, as well as a lightweight foil emergency blanket.

  3. Useful equipment should include shades (as much for the wind as the sun), GPS, multi-purpose knife, staff or stick, first aid kit, lip balm, small flashlight and spare batteries

  4. Optional items would include a camera, binoculars and swimsuit (summer only).

Isn't GPS "cheating"?

  1. Not really, but always think of GPS as a back up, not an essential tool. Batteries fail. Besides you still need a map and compass, even with a GPS unit. Look at it this way, with dense fog and no land marks visible, wouldn't a previously entered waypoint or two be useful in getting you off the mountain?

Any recommendations on food for the trip?

  1. The cafe at the waterfall was opening up as we began our hike so don't rely on them for sandwiches. We took hot soup in a thermos and enjoyed it on the summit. All the usual trail foods will work on the Berwyns, just make sure you have a little extra!

What about camping?

  1. Obviously, as we made this a day trip we have no first hand experience. In the summer the cafe at the waterfall operates a small camp site.

  2. Bivouac camping on the mountain is certainly a possibility but remember that is is private land and the owners almost certainly will not give you permission. We noted several good spots to wild camp (using the wildcamping etiquette of pitching late in the day, striking camp early in the morning).

What about public transport?

  1. The nearest train stations are probably Gobowen, near Oswestry, and Welshpool. Both have connections to Shrewsbury and Birmingham.

  2. Local bus services may exist as far as the towns down the valleys but they do not extend up to places like Pystyll Rhaeadr. The Berwyns are a lot more remote than many of the more popular Welsh destinations.

Where to Next?

  1. Bullet    Back to The Trails (for more hiking itineraries)

  2. Bullet    Focalplane Blog (for the latest from Focalplane and complete site menus)

  3. Bullet    Focalplane Flickr (the photos)

  4. Bullet    Focalplane Portal (for everything Focalplane)

 

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