Start with the magnet jig bolted to the metal disc and keep a bottle of super glue handy. (The are of the disc where the magnets will be paced on has to be cleaned with an angle grinder).

Be careful separating the magnets from each other. Twist one magnet 90 degrees, then lift it of

the others...

... keeping it in your closed hand. The magnets have to be placed onto the metal disc with alternating North and South poles. With the magnet in you hand check if the previous magnets attract or repulse it.

Put a drop of glue on the disc where you want to place the magnet. Also, make sure a spacer (e.g. a piece of plastic), preferably with slight angle towards the centre of the disc and a slot (space for the glue) cut into it, is placed in the same spot.

Hold on tight when placing the magnet on the metal disc. Use both hands.

Make sure the magnet touches the back of the slot in the jig.

Pull out the spacer out with a pair of pliers. Try to avoid the magnet from from sliding on the metal surface as this will damage its coating.

Magnets come from China and cost about £4 - £5 each.

Before casting the magnet rotor in resin, the inside of the mould, the top of the surround, as well as the bottom of the lid and the island have to be covered in grease (e.g. vasiline).

The resin.

Fill some of the resin in a more appropriate size bucket.

Put bolts through the mould from the bottom ...

Place the disc with the magnets into the mould. (note how the area where the magnets lie has been cleaned up)

Push/ pull the bolts through the metal disc.

Put the island on top.

Clamp the metal disc in between the island and base of the mould using nuts and washers.

Prepare the first batch of resin using a scale for precision.

Add ..... ? to the resin...

... using the device pictured to determine the appropriate quantity. Mix the two thoroughly. Rule of thumb: 1.5ml of ? for 100g of resin.

Add a couple of hands of powder...

... and again, mix thoroughly into the paste.

Pour the resin into the mould.

Use a spirt level to make sure the mould is straight.

The nuts and bolts should also be covered in grease.

Several batches of resin are mixed to fill up the mould evenly.

Hugh’s instructions explain that the surround level is slightly thinner than the metal disc with the magnets on top. The photograph shows the magnets slightly sticking out of the mould.

You also need a sheet of fiberglass to fit inside the mould and round the island in the middle.

Keep adding resin until the mould is full to the rim.

About an inch from the rim of the magnet rotor, add a thick ring of silicon.

Use a drill without a bit to get air bubbles to surface from the resin. A few bubbles won’t cause problems. It just looks neater without. 

Place the piece of fiberglass on top of the resin and the magnets.

The magnets are lightly covered with resin.

The fiberglass should lie flat on the resin.

Add more resin...

and distribute it evenly with the use of a tool if necessary. This should also be used to squeeze air bubbles out from under the fiberglass.

Add the lid.

Put some metal tools on top. The magnets will pull the lid down tightly. Too much metal could squeeze out too much of the resin which would leave the fiberglass dry on top. Also, note how the holes in the lid are big enough to fit around the nuts, not just the bolts.

The resin goes off after 40-60 minutes. Once the resin is dry, lift the lid...

... and use a chisel (grip at the bottom) to cut magnet rotor out. It’s easier when the resin is not totally dried out.

Carefully use a file to clean off the edges.