Replacing Front Rotors and Pads

 

Ordering Parts


  1. 1.Save lots of money and order and aftermarket kit of rotors and pads. I used a company called Alretta Truck Parts (brakeparts@mac.com)  http://www.alretta.com/                                                     

  2. 2.Buy two new brake sensors from Alretta, your local VW shop or Pap-Parts. It is a tough to try to salvage these without braking them. Part number for the front is 7L0907637 ($25  for 2) and order new Brake Rotor screws because they are supposed to be replaced each time. Part number is N9102801 ($2). Incase you are doing the rears, the rear pad sensor is 7L0907637C

  3. 3.Torque wrench and T50 torx driver, 13mm socket, 13/16” socket, anti-seize compound, brake pads grease, floor jack, hammer, flat head screw driver,


$285 Rotors and Pads
$52 Two brake sensors
$5 T-50 driver
$3 grease
$3 brake cleaner
$3 anti-seaze compound
$25 Torque wrench
$10 6-pack of beer

2 hours of my time

$386 Total cost

Tahoe12

September 6, 2007

 
 
Comments Widget

Install


  1. 1.Loosen lugnuts just a bit on the front two tires

  2. 2.Jack the front of car at the jack points described in the manual

  3. 3.Remove lug nut covers and lugnuts using the tools located in the spare tire trunk

  4. 4.Remove retaining bolt seen in photo 6484 using a T50 Torx

  5. 5.Use a 13mm socket and remove retaining pin bolt

  6. 6.Push in the pad spring and remove the pad retaining pin (use a screw driver and hammer to pound it out if it is tight)

  7. 7.Pull out pads and unclip the brake sensor from the wire leading up the wheel well

  8. 8.Remove to caliper bolts using 13/16 socket (they are on there very tight)

  9. 9.Use a piece of wire to support/hang the caliper front the upper shock mount. This will prevent the hard brake line from getting bent when you take the caliper off to access the rotor. I just used some fence wire.

  10. 10.Use a hammer to smack the rotor from behind. It is probably rusted on there a bit and will take a good amount of force to loosen.

  11. 11.Replace used rotor with new rotor at this point. They are directional so compare part numbers for the correct left vs. right rotor

-----------------

  1. 12.Clean caliper with brake cleaner before installing new pads

  2. 13.Use the anti-seize you bought to cover your bolts (not just the threads but all of it) for re-entry

  3. 14.Open your new brake pads and DO NOT TOUCH them with your fingers or any grease or it will ruin  the new pads

  4. 15.Insert brake sensor to new pads.

  5. 16.Use a flat head screw driver to even out the disc brake pistons ( i think there are two or three) Do one side first, insert new pads, than the other side of the caliper and insert the second new pad.

  6. 17.Clip brake sensor to sensor line

  7. 18.Install retaining spring and caliper bolt.

  8. 19.Go pump the brakes BEFORE doing the other side.

  9. 20.Repeat process on other side of car

  10. 21.Install wheels and lug nuts.

  11. 22.Test drive car slowly and carefully to feel for any issues with the brakes

  12. 23.Perform brake pad seating by stopping very hard 10 times in a row from 60MPH. than keep driving at 45 mph plus for 10 mins. to allow them to cool.

  13. 24.Enjoy new brakes and know you saved over $800



Hex screw holding on rotor= 270nm= 199 lbs.


Bolt holding on pads and spring= 30 nm = 22 lbs.


Also, For the rear caliper, it is 111 ft-lbs torque for the caliper to mounting bracket, plus a 90 degree turn: this is according to the Wagner website. They list the same specs for the front as the above site does.